I stepped out of the airport in Yerevan on a hot, sunny afternoon last June to start an incredible four week adventure. Six nights later, I finally slept in a bed. My plans included pilgrimages to several monasteries, and I anticipated the journey almost more than the destinations. Some of these ancient sites were near the city and others were deep into the countryside, but they were all surrounded by awe-inspiring landscapes. There’s nothing quite like setting off for a remote destination with a backpack, a tent, two thumbs, and a halfway decent aptitude for pantomime. And then trying to get back. Along the way, were were greeted by some of the most generous and hospitable people I’ve ever met. I might have had sore feet and a stiff back that week, but I ate and drank very, very well.